Method of making heel-reinforced slip-lasted shoes



y 1951 J. MELTZER 2,552,638

' METHOD OF MAKING HEEL-REINFORCED SLII LASTED SHOES Filed Aug. 10, 1946 3 Sheets-Sheet. 1

INVENTQR Jack: Meitzer ATTO R N EIY May 15, 11951 J. MELTZER 2,552,533

ammo]: OF MAKING HEEL-REINFORCED SLIP-LASTED SHOES Filed Aug. 10, 1946 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Jacli MeZfzeP May 15, 1951 J. MELTZER 2,552,638

METHOD OF MAKING HEEL-REINFORCED SLIP-LASTED SHOES Filed Aug. 10, 1946 s Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR Jacli Me 1 fzep BY ATTO: RNEY? t Patented May 15, 1951 METHOD OF MAKING HEEL-REINFORCED SLIP-LASTED SHOES Jack Meltzer, New York, N. Y.

Application August 10, 1946, Serial No. 689,721

2 Claims.

My present invention relates generally to shoes, and has particular reference to certain improvements in the type of shoe in which the outer sole is adhesivcly secured in place.

Coordinately, my invention relates to an improved procedure to be employed in manufacturing such a shoe.

A general object of the invention is to provide a construction in which the advantages of a stiff heel counter are attained in a shoe having an insole of the stitched-in type.

As is known, a stitched-in insole is highly desirable because it is not susceptible to displacement and is devoid of edges which may curl and thereby cause discomfort or which may impair the attractiveness of shoes having openings at the toe or elsewhere. A stiff heel counter is desirable because of its ability to lend staunchness and form-retaining qualities to the shoe, and to impart a stylish and attractive appearance to it.

A more particular object of the invention is to provide a structure in which the dual benefits of a full-length stitched-in insole, and of a stiff heel counter, are achieved without encumbering the portion beneath the heel of the wearer with elements or parts which may tend to impair softness and comfort.

A coordinate object is to produce these desirable results in a simplified manner and by a sequence of procedures which are relatively easy to perform, expeditious, and inexpensive.

In accordance with my invention, an insole and a special counter covering element, possibly a platform wrapper as well, are secured to the lower edge of the heel region of an upper in a preliminary series of operations preceding any application of the assembly to a last; and the counter-covering element is secured in place only along its lower edge, thus defining a pocket which opens upwardly. A stiif heel counter is then inserted downwardly into this pocket and the unattached edges of the covering element are secured to the upper. Only then is the assembly applied to a last, whereupon a shoe-base structure of any suitable or desired character is secured in place to complete the manufacturing process.

The procedure is essentially of simple character, capable of performance by relatively unskilled hands, and the finished article of footwear has a neat-appearing rigidified heel region and a soft and comfortable interior. The structure is inexpensive, suitable for a variety of shoes, slippers, sandals, and similar items intended for either street wear or indoor use, and lends itself readily to variations in style and to the employment of various ornamental materials.

The best manner of achieving these general objects and advantages, and such other objects and advantages as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, is illustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of an illustrative upper;

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a countercovering element of the present character;

Figure 3 is a perspective view showing the initial assembly of the parts of Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 4 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line 44 of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a bottom view of the assembly after the insole has been attached thereto;

Figure 6 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line fi6 of Figure 5;

Figure 7 is a view of the assembly after a platform wrapper has been associated therewith;

Figure 8 is a perspective view of a type of stiff heel counter which may be employed;

Figure 9 is a view showing the heel counter of Figure 8 in position;

Figure 10 is a perspective view of the finished article of footwear;

Figure 11 is a fragmentary longitudinal crosssectional view of the item shown in Figure 10; and

Figure 12 is a view similar to Figure 9 illustrating a slight modification.

I have chosen to illustrate an upper 20 formed of a blank or blanks previously cut to the desired contours and stitched together in the center of the heel region, as at 2|. This upper may be composed of any desired material, either singleor double-ply. For the sake of simplicity, I have shown the upper 2!] composed of a single ply of flexible leather or the like.

In the embodiment chosen for illustration, the upper is provided with a lower edge 22 intended to provide no openings in the toe region or elsewhere. The ornamentation and general contours of the upper may be of any desired character, and I have illustratively shown the upper provided with a forward top piece 23. It will be understood, however, that the invention is not restricted to a shoe conforming to this particular style.

In Figure 2 I have illustrated a counter-covering element 24, which may be composed of flex- V ible leather or similar sheet material, and which preferably has a contour substantially as that 7 shown. For better shaping, the element 2 may be provided with a notch in its central part, edges being stitched together as at 25, but this is not essential. The lower edge 26 of the element 24 is preferably longer than the upper edge 7 length insole 3D to the assembly. This insole may be of any soft flexible material, such as fabric, and it is previously out to the proper shape and size. Its peripheral edge is secured to the lower edge 22 of the upper 28 by means of a line of stitching 3!, as indicated most clearly in Figures 5 and 6. The line of stitching 3! may coincide with the stitchingZil, or may lie alongside of it. No special care need be taken to keep the lines of stitching 28 and 3! separate.

Where the shoe is to be provided ultimately with a platform sole, as in the embodiment herein chosen forillustration, the next procedure lies in securing a platform wrapper to the assembly. This is illustrated most clearly in Figure "1, in

which I have shown a platform wrapper consist ing of a rear part 32 and a forward part The width of the. wrapper need not be uniform throughout the extent of the shoe, and will depend upon the nature of the shoe-base structure ultimately to be employed. In the present drawings, the rear part 32 is wider than the forward part 33, since it is ultimately intended to cover a platform sole which isthicker in the heel region of the shoe.

The platform wrapper is secured in position by a line of stiching 34, and it will be observed that this stitching secures the wrapper along its top edge to the lower edge 22 of the upper 28. The stitching 34 may coincide with the stitches 28 and 2 I, and no special care need be taken in performing this stitching operation.

The platform wrapper is then turned down into its normal position, as shownin Figure 9. In this position, the stitching M is concealed, and if the several stitchings have been produced in substantial coincidence, as is the usual practice, all of the stitches are thus concealed from view.

A stiff heel counter 35, having the arcuate contour shown in Figure 8, is then inserted downwardly into the space or pocket 29. Needless to say, the counter-covering element 2:; (Figure 2) will have been so chosen that the'pocket defined by it is adequate and fitting to receive the heel counter 35 (Figure 8), so that this counter fits snugly within the pocket, and overlies the heel region of the upper for proper reinforcing of the latter.

The unattached edges of the covering element '24 are then secured, as by stitching 35 (Figure 9) to the upper 28, thereby sealing the pocket and completely enclosing the counter 35.

All of the foregoing steps are performed as parts of a procedure which is preliminary to the application of the assembly to a last. It is only after this assembly has been completed, as indicated in Figure 9, and as hereinbefore described, that it is inverted and applied to a last. This lasting procedure has not been illustrated in the present drawings, since it is well known per se. On the last, a suitable shoe-base structure is applied in the usual way. I have illustratively shown a construction which comprises a platform sole all, a wooden forwardly-tapered hee1'38, and an outer sole 3%. In practice, the heel 38 may be adhesively secured to the platform sole 3'! as a preliminary step, and this unit is then applied to the insole 3t and adhesively secured in position. The platformwrapper elements 32 and 33 are then pulled over this platform sole structure, and, the edges of the wrapper are adhesively secured thereto. The final step in the manufacturing process lies in adhesively securing the outer sole 39 to cover the edges of the platform wrapper and impart a finished appearance to the article.

The platform sole may be composed of any desired material, such as a layer of cork covered with felt, or a fibrous mass of material, or other soft substance. The outer sole 39 is preferably composed of relatively staunch leather.

The invention does not necessarily require that the outer sole sflextend beneath the heel 38, as shown. Other shoe-base structures, well-known per so, may be employed if desired. 7

In Figure 12 I have shown the possibility of modifying the procedure to the extent of securing the counter-covering element 4!] to the interior surface of the upper GI, rather than to the exterior surface, as best illustrated in Figures 3 and. 9. In the latter case, the lower edge of the element 2 3 (Figure 2) is interposed ultimately between the upper 29 and the platform wrapper 32. In the modified structure shown in Figure 12, the corresponding lower edge of the covering element 4!! is interposed between the upper. 2! and the peripheral edge of the insole 42. In each case, a pocket like that shown at 29 in Figure 4, opening upwardly, is produced; and it is into this pocket that the stiff heel counter (such as that shown at 35 in Figure 8) is. inserted, in a downward direction. In carrying out the procedure of Figure 12, as in the preferred embodiment illustrated in the other drawings, the unattached edges of the covering element 40 are secured to the upper ti by stitches 43, after the stiff counter has been inserted into the pocket, and prior to the lasting operation.

Obviously, those skilled in the art may readily make changes in many of the details herein described and, illustrated, without necessarily departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Those steps in the manufacture of a sliplasted shoe which comprise stitching a sock lining along its entire periphery to the lower edge of an upper, stitching only the lower edge *of a counter-covering element to the lower edge of the upper to form an upwardly opening pocket, inserting a relatively stiff unflanged counter downwardly into said pocket toward the sock: lining, stitching th unattached periphery of said.

assembly to a last, and. attaching a shoe base structure thereto.

2. Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe which comprise stitching a sock lining along its entire periphery to the lower edge of an upper, stitching the upper edge of a platform wrapper to the lower edge of the upper, stitching only the 5 lower edge of a counter-covering element to the lower edge of the upper to form an upwardly opening pocket, inserting a relatively stiff unfianged counter downwardly into said pocket toward the sock lining, stitching the unattached periphery of said counter-covering element to the upper to completely enclose said counter with a line of stitches entirely surrounding but spaced from the peripheral edges of said counter, and

finally applying a platform sole and covering 5 2,442,239

it with said platform wrapper.

JACK MELTZER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 214,684 Miller Apr. 22, 1879 640,900 Gordon Jan. 9, 1900 2,244,504 Riddell June 3, 1941 2,301,836 Wilcox Nov. 10, 1942 2,348,952 Braun May 16, 1944 2,392,815 Gleason Jan. 15, 1946 2,404,587 Maling July 23, 1946 2,434,370 Schmidli Jan. 13, 1948 Herlihy May 25, 1948 

